More Cairo

Oh joy, Somebody has told me about a bar. In fact it is more of a beer hall, with as much atmosphere as a public convenience, but it was open for business and that was the main thing. Whilst looking for it I asked a Mento vendor for directions. He went into a sort of hysterical convulsion, savouring the name repeatedly through tears of glee. A bit of an overreaction I thought. Later as I indulged my shameful habit, someone started furtively cleaning my shoes. I tipped him (in his evident opinion, though not in mine) rather handsomely.

In readiness for a journey by lorry into the Sahara, I have moved to a different "hotel" where I am sharing a bedroom with a Frenchman and a Pole. For about £7 a night I suppose I can't really complain. They, on the other hand, probably can. A fairly predictable stomach bug means that I currently do not quite measure up to the ideal characteristics one might look for in a room-mate. We are all going together into the desert tomorrow, where we will be camping overnight before continuing our journey. I am fairly confident I will not be required to share a tent.

I have survived on a liquid diet for 48 hours, but it hasn't really cramped my style. I was riding in the desert yesterday close to the Pyramids at Giza. When I told the co-owner of the stables (Karen, a charming ex-pat English lady) of my medical condition she kindly gave me a bottle of "intestinal disinfectant" she uses on the horses. Don't worry, she also uses it on her husband and children and it is designed primarily for humans. Whether or not it can be described as horse medicine, it definitely seems to be working.

I have been doing quite a lot of riding, mostly in the desert near Giza. The horses are magnificent and very well cared for. "My" horse is part Arab, and you would have to travel a long way to meet a more willing and athletic animal. One of the team, Jimmy, comes with me to be sure I don't break my neck, and yesterday he was riding a pure bred Arab stallion. Karen told me his value is between £7,000 and £20,000. 20 minutes into our two and a half hour ride, Jimmy offered to change horses. I thought mine was good, but this was like switching from a Morris Minor to a Porsche. I was completely out of my depth and inevitably the horse decided at one point to terminate our association. As I shook the sand out of my remaining hair, a very amused Jimmy asked me whose fault it was, mine or the horse's. I declined to provide the obvious answer.

This morning I had my first encounter with African wildlife. I don't know who was more alarmed, him or me. He was a healthy-looking beast, a lustrous golden brown colour, and with his full complement of six legs. He didn't look aggressive, and I decided that sharing the bathroom with him would be marginally less unpleasant than the mess it would make if I stamped on him.